Take 5 with Peter Lynes

Curry & Paxton frames worn by Sir Michael Caine in the Harry Palmer films (courtesy: Christies Auction)

Established in 1886, London-based Curry & Paxton cemented its place in popular culture with the Yvan frame – championed by acting legend Sir Michael Caine. Re-founded in 2020, the company recently announced a new partnership with British fashion label Fred Perry to launch the latter’s first eyewear product – a reworked version of this iconic frame.

DO|DO Online editor Nicky Collinson speaks with Curry & Paxton CEO, Peter Lynes, to find out more about this historic British optical business…

NC: Can you tell me a bit about the history and heritage of Curry & Paxton?

PL: The origins of the business date back to 1876, which I believe makes Curry & Paxton the oldest British optical business in existence today. Our founders were true pioneers – what we’d likely refer to as entrepreneurs today. They were designers and makers of ophthalmic instruments, and we have a number of their pieces in our ‘micro’ museum at the practice. They also held a number of patents for their designs through the early part of the 20th century.

The company was awarded a royal warrant in 1943, made gas marks, binoculars and protective goggles during the second world war, was the first optical business to collaborate with the newly formed NHS in 1948. It became indelibly printed into the annals of British popular culture when our Yvan frame was iconised by Sir Michael Caine throughout the 1950s and 60s. The business was acquired by Boots in 1987, at which point there was around 50 practices operating around the UK. It subsequently disappeared from the UK High Street after Boots re-badged the entire business.

NC: What made the company’s products so desirable in its 1960s heyday?

Original Great Portland Street premises, 1905

PL: Well, Curry & Paxton was the originator with a long history of innovation in the optical world even at that point. Of course, eyewear wasn’t what it is today in terms of its style associations – but this changed fundamentally when our Yvan frame was adopted by Sir Michael Caine in his role as Harry Palmer in the British Spy films, most notably The Ipcress File, and then sporting the sunglasses version in the British crime caper The Italian Job. This cemented the frame’s place in British cinematic history and would have undoubtedly projected the brand into the consumer conscious.

NC: Why – and how – was the company re-founded in 2020?

PL: The why is because a business with such an incredible history should have a place to play in the industry’s future – as well as its past. In a world dominated by brands, consumers are looking for authenticity and credibility. Curry & Paxton is the very epitome of these – producing a well-made product that does what it’s supposed to do.

I was introduced to the story of the business in 2018. My career has been built around British brands so I had some understanding of the value of the story. I helped launch the business again in April 2020 and became so enamoured with it that my family and I acquired it in January 2022. We established the practice in May 2022, and began providing services through the store and online through the website. We now provide our frames and services to customers all over the world.

NC: How did your new partnership with Fred Perry come about?

PL: Twelve years of my career were spent at Fred Perry – from 1994 to 2006 – and the brand still holds a place in my heart. When we were considering our first collaboration, it seemed completely natural to partner with them. There are clear parallels between the two brands and we share many of the same sensibilities: a rich heritage, authenticity, cultural associations and a customer who understands and appreciates all of these things.

The choice of the Yvan frame was equally natural and – referencing the iconic Fred Perry shirt was the natural accompaniment; two definitive products in their respective fields.

NC: How is Curry & Paxton embracing the age of sustainability in eyewear?

PL: Sustainability is central to all of our considerations and planning. Last year, we launched a frame made in our partner workshop in Hackney, East London. Its 3.4 miles to our practice from the workshop and the frames are delivered to the store on a pedal bike – so zero carbon emissions.

We have sourced a new packaging supplier from where our entire packaging suite will be certified from sustainable sources. We have work to do to meet our own goals, and there are some limitations and challenges in terms of raw materials and supply chains but we have a plan to address these as quickly as we possibly can. It’s an important issue for us and our customers.